Tunis is the capital of both Tunisia and the Tunis Governorate. It is Tunisia's largest city, with a population of 728,453 as of 2004 the greater metropolitan area holds some 2,412,500 inhabitants. Situated on a large Mediterranean Sea gulf, behind the Lake of Tunis and the port of La Goulette, the city extends along the coastal plain and the hills that surround it. At the centre of more modern development lies the old medina. Beyond this district lie the suburbs of Carthage, La Marsa, and Sidi Bou Said. The medina is found at the centre of the city: a dense agglomeration of alleys and covered passages, full of intense scents and colours, boisterous and active trade, and a surfeit of goods on offer ranging from leather to plastic, tin to the finest filigree, tourist souvenirs to the works of tiny crafts shops.